paris fashion week|gareth pugh rtw fall 2011

Fashion films — by all means. But there’s still no substitution for seeing the real thing up close, as Gareth Pugh proved Wednesday when he turned back to a traditional runway show after last season’s arty, abstract film screening. The clothes were right in line with what you’ve come to expect from him — strong, sculpted coats; molded leather, outsize architectural collars, all executed to advanced Gothic perfection. The beginning looks struck a latter-day medieval warrior tone with gold zippers that intersected across the bust of a sleeveless dress and plain leather breastplate motifs. It was the Matrix meets Joan of Arc in black leather. One criticism that’s been leveled against Pugh is that he risks being one note. But after all the black and aggression came a surprise. Color, a bright one! A series of cobalt blue dresses were relatively simple and even pretty, done with flyaway panels of silk that trailed off the shoulders and hips. It was a lead-up to a burst of gold, geometric strips on hooded leather coats or squares on a tight, sculpted dress that channeled glamour, Gothic style. At one point, the gold, it takes on a little similar to McQueen…do you see it?

 

 

paris fashion week|gareth pugh rtw fall 2011